{"id":9198,"date":"2015-09-17T17:30:22","date_gmt":"2015-09-17T15:30:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/?p=9198"},"modified":"2015-09-17T15:28:32","modified_gmt":"2015-09-17T13:28:32","slug":"jon-krakauer-eg-es-jeg-into-thin-air-konyvajanlo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/jon-krakauer-eg-es-jeg-into-thin-air-konyvajanlo\/","title":{"rendered":"Jon Krakauer: \u00c9g \u00e9s j\u00e9g (Into Thin Air) \u2013 k\u00f6nyvaj\u00e1nl\u00f3"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/877614_51.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9207\" src=\"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/877614_51.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"593\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/877614_51.jpg 400w, https:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/877614_51-202x300.jpg 202w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>\u201eTal\u00e1n harminc percig is b\u00e1multam az ormot, \u00e9s pr\u00f3b\u00e1ltam el\u0151re bele\u00e9lni magam, milyen \u00e9rz\u00e9s a vihart\u00e9pte b\u00e9rcen \u00e1llni. B\u00e1r hegyek sz\u00e1zait m\u00e1sztam meg, a Mount Everest annyira k\u00fcl\u00f6nb\u00f6z\u00f6tt mindegyikt\u0151l, hogy k\u00e9pzel\u0151er\u0151m nem tudott megbirk\u00f3zni a feladattal. V\u00e9gtelen\u00fcl hidegnek, magasnak, hihetetlen\u00fcl t\u00e1volinak l\u00e1tszott a cs\u00facs. Miut\u00e1n elfordultam, hogy folytassam a gyalogl\u00e1st f\u00f6lfel\u00e9 a csap\u00e1son, lelki\u00e1llapotom az ideges, v\u00e1rakoz\u00e1s teli izgalom \u00e9s a m\u00e1r-m\u00e1r b\u00e9n\u00edt\u00f3 retteg\u00e9s k\u00f6z\u00f6tt ingadozott.\u201d\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Jon Krakauer amerikai \u00edr\u00f3 1996-ban az <em>Outside<\/em> magazin megb\u00edz\u00e1s\u00e1b\u00f3l utazott Nep\u00e1lba, hogy cikket \u00edrjon a Mount Everestre ind\u00edtott \u00fczleti jelleg\u0171 exped\u00edci\u00f3kr\u00f3l. Krakauer, aki kor\u00e1bban maga is akt\u00edv hegym\u00e1sz\u00f3 volt, hirtelen el\u00e9rhet\u0151 k\u00f6zels\u00e9gbe ker\u00fclt gyermekkori \u00e1lm\u00e1nak megval\u00f3s\u00edt\u00e1s\u00e1hoz, az Everest megm\u00e1sz\u00e1s\u00e1hoz. B\u00e1r eredetileg csak alapt\u00e1bori \u00fajs\u00e1g\u00edr\u00f3k\u00e9nt vett volna r\u00e9szt a t\u00far\u00e1n, a magazin v\u00e9g\u00fcl befizette \u0151t Rob Hall \u00faj-z\u00e9landi t\u00faravezet\u0151 kalauzos exped\u00edci\u00f3j\u00e1ba. Az \u00edr\u00f3 a nyolc vend\u00e9gm\u00e1sz\u00f3 egyikek\u00e9nt nagy rem\u00e9nyekkel \u00e9s v\u00e9gtelen elsz\u00e1nts\u00e1ggal v\u00e1gott neki az \u00fatnak, a cs\u00facs\u00e9rt azonban nagy \u00e1rat kellett fizetnie. A tragikus esem\u00e9nyek arra k\u00e9sztett\u00e9k Krakauert, hogy k\u00f6nyv form\u00e1j\u00e1ban is ki\u00edrja mag\u00e1b\u00f3l a hegyen t\u00f6rt\u00e9nteket; besz\u00e1mol\u00f3ja a Mount Everest minden eddigin\u00e9l t\u00f6bb ember\u00e9letet k\u00f6vetel\u0151 m\u00e1sz\u00f3-id\u00e9ny\u00e9r\u0151l sz\u00f3l.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/AVT_Jon-Krakauer_29261.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9203\" src=\"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/AVT_Jon-Krakauer_29261.jpg\" alt=\"AVT_Jon-Krakauer_29261\" width=\"639\" height=\"360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/AVT_Jon-Krakauer_29261.jpg 639w, https:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/AVT_Jon-Krakauer_29261-300x169.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 639px) 100vw, 639px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">A Nep\u00e1l \u00e9s Tibet hat\u00e1r\u00e1n \u00e1ll\u00f3 Mount Everest \u2013 m\u00e1s n\u00e9ven Csomolungma \u2013 megh\u00f3d\u00edt\u00e1s\u00e1ra viszonylag k\u00e9s\u0151n, 1953-ban ker\u00fclt sor, az \u00faj-z\u00e9landi Sir Edmund Hillary \u00e9s a nep\u00e1li Tenzing Norgaj j\u00f3volt\u00e1b\u00f3l. A hegy \u201elegy\u0151z\u00e9s\u00e9t\u201d a vil\u00e1gsajt\u00f3 kiemelt figyelemmel k\u00f6vette.<a href=\"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-admin\/post-new.php#_ftn1\" name=\"_ftnref1\">[1]<\/a> A F\u00f6ld legmagasabb hegyek\u00e9nt az Everest mindig is a m\u00e1sz\u00f3k legnagyobb \u00e1lma volt; a t\u00f6bbi cs\u00facs, b\u00e1rmekkora kih\u00edv\u00e1st \u00e9s elismer\u00e9st is jelentett, soha nem sz\u00e1lhatott versenybe vele.\u00a0 Az Everest-l\u00e1z a \u201980-as \u00e9vekben abban cs\u00facsosodott ki, hogy tehet\u0151s, de korl\u00e1tozott m\u00e1sz\u00f3 gyakorlattal rendelkez\u0151 \u00fcgyfelek kereskedelmi exped\u00edci\u00f3k keret\u00e9ben val\u00f3s\u00e1ggal el\u00e1rasztott\u00e1k a kor\u00e1bban a hegym\u00e1sz\u00f3-elit fels\u00e9gter\u00fclet\u00e9nek sz\u00e1m\u00edt\u00f3 hegyet. A kereslet kiel\u00e9g\u00edt\u00e9s\u00e9re egym\u00e1s ut\u00e1n szervez\u0151dtek k\u00fcl\u00f6nb\u00f6z\u0151 \u00fczleti v\u00e1llalkoz\u00e1sok. Az \u00faj-z\u00e9landi Rob Hall<em> Adventure Consultants<\/em> nev\u0171 c\u00e9g\u00e9vel a \u201990-es \u00e9vek elej\u00e9t\u0151l foglalkozott fizet\u0151 \u00fcgyfelek kalauzol\u00e1s\u00e1val, m\u00edg az amerikai Scott Fischer <em>Mountain Madness<\/em> elnevez\u00e9s\u0171 v\u00e1llalkoz\u00e1s\u00e1val tette ugyanezt. Az \u00fczleti jelleg\u0171 exped\u00edci\u00f3k gyarapod\u00e1sa heves vit\u00e1kat eredm\u00e9nyezett. A b\u00edr\u00e1l\u00f3k k\u00f6z\u00f6tt volt Sir Edmund Hillary is, aki az etikai k\u00e9rd\u00e9seken t\u00fal els\u0151sorban a m\u00e1sz\u00f3k felk\u00e9sz\u00fcletlens\u00e9g\u00e9re \u00e9s az ebb\u0151l fakad\u00f3 vesz\u00e9lyekre h\u00edvta fel a figyelmet. A Mount Everest megm\u00e1sz\u00e1sa ugyanis j\u00f3csk\u00e1n t\u00falmutat az \u201eelk\u00e9peszt\u0151 sportteljes\u00edtm\u00e9ny\u201d kateg\u00f3ri\u00e1n. A cs\u00facs el\u00e9r\u00e9s\u00e9hez az emberi szervezetet t\u0171r\u0151k\u00e9pess\u00e9g\u00e9nek hat\u00e1r\u00e1ig kell \u0171zni; ezen pedig a korszer\u0171 felszerel\u00e9sek megl\u00e9te sem k\u00e9pes \u00e9rdemben v\u00e1ltoztatni. Ahogyan Krakauer besz\u00e1mol\u00f3j\u00e1b\u00f3l kider\u00fcl, el\u00e9g a k\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00e9nyek minim\u00e1lis megv\u00e1ltoz\u00e1sa \u00e9s m\u00e1ris semmibe v\u00e9sz a modern technika jelentette \u2013 hamis \u2013 biztons\u00e1g\u00e9rzet. Az exped\u00edci\u00f3 tagjai sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra azonban az a gondolat, hogy csup\u00e1n a r\u00e9szv\u00e9teli d\u00edjat kell befizetni \u00e9s feljuthatnak a vil\u00e1g tetej\u00e9re, minden m\u00e1s \u00e9sz\u00e9rvet elhom\u00e1lyos\u00edtott.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">A szerz\u0151 a katmandui rept\u00e9rt\u0151l az alapt\u00e1boron \u00e1t eg\u00e9szen az Everest cs\u00facs\u00e1ig kalauzolja az olvas\u00f3t, akinek m\u00e1r a k\u00f6nyv elej\u00e9n az eml\u00e9kezet\u00e9be v\u00e9si, a 8848 m\u00e9teres magass\u00e1g el\u00e9r\u00e9se csup\u00e1n az \u00fat fele \u2013 innent\u0151l veszi kezdet\u00e9t az igaz\u00e1n embert pr\u00f3b\u00e1l\u00f3 feladat, a veszedelmes ereszked\u00e9s. A fejezetek egyedi tematika alapj\u00e1n \u2013 a tengerszintt\u0151l val\u00f3 magass\u00e1ghoz igazodva \u2013 \u00e9p\u00fclnek fel. Az oxig\u00e9nd\u00fas vagy \u00e9ppen oxig\u00e9nhi\u00e1nyos szintek k\u00f6z\u00f6tt ing\u00e1zva megismerhetj\u00fck a t\u00f6rt\u00e9net szerepl\u0151inek szem\u00e9lyis\u00e9g\u00e9t, elt\u00e9r\u0151 motiv\u00e1ci\u00f3it. Krakauer t\u00e9nyszer\u0171 tud\u00f3s\u00edt\u00e1sa nyom\u00e1n az olvas\u00f3 \u00e9pp\u00fagy r\u00e9szese lehet annak az euf\u00f3rikus \u00e9lm\u00e9nynek, amely az embert a vil\u00e1g tetej\u00e9n \u00e9ri, mint a dermeszt\u0151 f\u00e9lelemnek \u00e9s az elkeseredett k\u00fczdelemnek. A szerz\u0151 igen nagy alaposs\u00e1ggal veszi sorra az elk\u00f6vetett hib\u00e1kat, f\u0151k\u00e9nt az\u00e9rt, hogy maga is v\u00e1laszt tal\u00e1lhasson a legfontosabb k\u00e9rd\u00e9sre: vajon elker\u00fclhet\u0151 lehetett volna a trag\u00e9dia?<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/rob-halls-team2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-9204 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/rob-halls-team2-e1442495552274.jpg\" alt=\"rob-halls-team2\" width=\"630\" height=\"360\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">A megr\u00e1z\u00f3 esem\u00e9nyek \u00e1ltal kiv\u00e1ltott indulatok a m\u00e1sz\u00f3-id\u00e9ny v\u00e9g\u00e9vel sem csillapodtak. Anatolij Bukrejev, Scott Fischer hegyi vezet\u0151je, G. Weston DeWalt k\u00f6zrem\u0171k\u00f6d\u00e9s\u00e9vel 1997 november\u00e9ben jelentette meg <em>Hegyi \u0150r\u00fclet<\/em> (<em>The Climb<\/em>) c\u00edm\u0171 k\u00f6tet\u00e9t, mely \u00faj szemsz\u00f6gb\u0151l mutatta be az esem\u00e9nyeket. Bukrejev ugyanis er\u0151sen kifog\u00e1solta azt a portr\u00e9t, melyet Krakauer az <em>\u00c9g \u00e9s j\u00e9gben<\/em> festett r\u00f3la, ez\u00e9rt \u00fagy d\u00f6nt\u00f6tt, saj\u00e1t v\u00e1laszokat ad a t\u00f6rt\u00e9ntekre. A vita azonban 1997 kar\u00e1csony\u00e1n \u2013 hat h\u00e9ttel a <em>Hegyi \u0151r\u00fclet<\/em> megjelen\u00e9se ut\u00e1n \u2013 \u00e9rdektelenn\u00e9 v\u00e1lt, mert az ekkor 39 \u00e9ves Bukrejevet egy lavina elsodorta az Annapurn\u00e1n. Mindezek ellen\u00e9re azonban a k\u00f6nyv tal\u00e1n legfontosabb \u00fczenete az, hogy minden ember maga d\u00f6nti el mennyit \u00e9r sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra egy \u00e1lom, \u00e9s ez\u00e9rt mit hajland\u00f3 kock\u00e1ra tenni. K\u00fcls\u0151 szeml\u00e9l\u0151k\u00e9nt teh\u00e1t felesleges is racion\u00e1lis magyar\u00e1zatokat keresni ezekre a tettekre. Bele\u00e9l\u00e9s h\u00edj\u00e1n meg\u00e9rteni sem fogjuk tudni a t\u00f6rt\u00e9nteket, ez\u00e9rt nem tehet\u00fcnk m\u00e1st, minthogy elfogadjuk azokat.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">A Mount Everest els\u0151 magyar megm\u00e1sz\u00f3ja Er\u0151ss Zsolt volt (2002-ben), aki az 1996. m\u00e1jus\u00e1ban t\u00f6rt\u00e9nt esem\u00e9nyekkel egy id\u0151ben, a hegy tibeti oldal\u00e1n pr\u00f3b\u00e1lt a cs\u00facsra jutni egy Dr. Nagy S\u00e1ndor vezette exped\u00edci\u00f3ban \u2013 ekkor m\u00e9g sikertelen\u00fcl.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/cornandsoda.com\/wp\/wp-admin\/post-new.php#_ftnref1\" name=\"_ftn1\">[1]<\/a> http:\/\/news.bbc.co.uk\/onthisday\/hi\/dates\/stories\/may\/29\/newsid_2492000\/2492683.stm<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u201eTal\u00e1n harminc percig is b\u00e1multam az ormot, \u00e9s pr\u00f3b\u00e1ltam el\u0151re bele\u00e9lni magam, milyen \u00e9rz\u00e9s a vihart\u00e9pte b\u00e9rcen \u00e1llni.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":9203,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[35,38,15,33],"tags":[2919,2916,2918],"class_list":["post-9198","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ajanlo","category-film-vs-konyv","category-konyv","category-kritika-konyv","tag-eg-es-jeg","tag-everest","tag-jon-krakauer"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Jon Krakauer: \u00c9g \u00e9s j\u00e9g (Into Thin Air) \u2013 k\u00f6nyvaj\u00e1nl\u00f3<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Jon Krakauer amerikai \u00edr\u00f3 1996-ban az Outside magazin megb\u00edz\u00e1s\u00e1b\u00f3l utazott Nep\u00e1lba, hogy cikket \u00edrjon a Mt. 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